So far I’ve seen come really cute pockets posted in our fan group! I’m really looking forward to seeing all of your dresses come together each day. Today is a little tricky…but we’ll get through it!
Today we’re working on the skirt facing and hem. So grab your skirt pieces and let’s get started!
This pic is missing my facing piece. You’ll need that, too!
- Take your facing piece and finish the side and bottom edges. You can serge, zigzag, or use pinking shears. Promise I did it after I took this pic! On the wrong side of your fabric, find the center of your facing piece and make a mark 1/4″ from the center on both sides of the center mark. Then make a mark 3″ from the top, right on the center. Join the three marks to make a V. See figure 1.
- Take one of your skirt pieces and find the center on the top edge of the skirt. Mark it with a pin. See fig. 2.
- Lay the facing piece on top of your skirt piece, centering it where you put your pin, right sides together. Pin in place. See figure 3.
- Sew along the V, pivoting at the point by lowering your needle into the fabric, then raising the presser foot, and then rotating the fabric to the new direction. Lower the presser foot and continue sewing on the other side of the V. Not a great pic, but see figure 4.
- Using a small pair of scissors or a seam ripper, (see above!) cut up the center, starting just past the stitching on the point of the V, and get as close as you can to the point without actually cutting through your stitching lines. Be very, very careful! See figure 5.
- Carefully take your facing piece and flip it in between your cut, which will turn it so that your wrong sides are together. Press this seam really well, making sure there are no puckers at the point. Topstitch the V, using a 1/8″ seam allowance. See Figure 6.
- Take your skirt pieces and stack them, right sides together. Sew your side seams and finish them, using your desired method. Turn right side out and press the seams toward the back of the skirt.
- If you are doing the traditional hem band, see the instructions in your pattern. I will be showing you how to do a ruffled hem. You will need 4 strips of your accent fabric, cut 4″ long and the width of your original hem band piece. You can also just go hog wild and use the whole width of the fabric for extra ruffliness. If you already cut your hem band pieces and want to do the ruffle…no worries! Just cut those pieces in half long ways and you’ll have a petite ruffle hem. See Figure 8.
- Take your 4 strips and sew the short edges, right sides together, in a huge loop. Then hem your loop using a tiny hem (press up 1/4″, press up another 1/4″, and stitch), serged rolled hem, or a hemming foot. See Figure 9.
- Use a basting stitch at 1/4″ seam allowance from the top of the ruffle piece. Gather your loop to match up with the bottom of your skirt piece and pin right sides together. I find it helpful to match up the loop seams with the side seams and the center of the skirt piece. See Figure 10. Sew the ruffle on using a 1/2″ seam allowance. Finish the seam using your preferred method.
- Flip your ruffle piece down and press the seam allowance towards the skirt from the right side of the fabric. Topstitch the seam allowance in place.
That’s all for today! We are halfway through! Make sure to post a pic of your skirt piece in our fan group for entry in the daily assignment giveaway. You have until 11:59 PST on March 17th to post. Happy sewing!by